|Harper's Bazaar, page 103, "The Style: Bold Prints, Pattern Up". February 2013.|
Flachen-schmuck has become a flexible part of my vocabulary though, because as you well know surface decoration can be good or bad - an example occurring recently as I thought "too much flachen-schmuck" recently when I stood before a 40-foot statue - gilded and painted like Priscilla Queen of the Desert. (Not me, but the statue.)
Here's another beautifully mesmerizing example of flachen-schmuck. It's a graphic look over which I waxed enthusiastic in this March 2012 post, when the same zing-zing pinballing of my eyeballs occurred. At that time I was unaware of the term flachen-schmuck, but the graphic-optic patterns of the coat and curtain in Vogue's Francoise Gilot feature were eye-engaging in precisely the same way.
|Francoise Gilot - Vogue, March 2012 - Tina Barney photograph. Oscar de la Renta coat. Gorgeous!|
Look at the curtain there behind Gilot.
Scroll up and look at the zig-zag-chevron-diamond-stripe tunic and pant ensemble.
What's causing that rhythm?
Maybe the colors, but as I see it - perhaps much of that graphic-optic art rhythm is a result of black and white contrasting pattern - with color introduced to the mix. The red and orange/yellow do vibrate because they're such similar colors... one feels the heat of red and orange... a flame-like flicker.
Then, of course think about the works of Klimt - all that surface decoration. Not really like Delaunay at all, because with Delaunay - there was more emphasis on surface interruption... interrupting the perceived planes and giving a sense of multi-dimensional depth. Klimt's rhythmic surfaces seem - to me - more two-dimensional... a gently undulating, albeit psychedelic, plain/field.
Summing up all this flachen-schmuck, it appears there's a Wiener Werkstatte, Delaunay, Klimt, (and perhaps Futurist), surface-decoration trend already pinball-rolling.
By the way, I would attribute the designer of the great tunic/pant combo - and have tried diligently to discover the designer - but still no answer. If you know, please comment. I think it's a fantastic look! Not subtle, not discreet, not for the timid - but it absolutely emits energy.